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DIY Barn Door Entertainment/TV Console

Updated: Mar 31, 2023

A Step by Step Build Plan

When Tom and I moved in together, we had a lot of furniture that didn’t match each other. Instead of buying all new furniture, I created plans on what we can keep, what I can repurpose and what I can build new. Our old TV console didn’t fit into those plans because it lacked storage space and our TV completely overpowered the piece, so that’s why I decided to create something on my own!


I recommend reading through the entire plans before deciding to build. You’ll also want to keep in mind that the size I created may not work for your space, so be sure to adjust any measurements. Also remember to always double check those measurements before you make any cuts.


Enjoy and happy building!


The Details:


Time Spent: 10 hours

Skill Level: Intermediate

Cost: Around $150 (this will depend on your size, what type of wood you use, and which barn door hardware you pick)


Tools Needed:

  • Circular Saw

  • Miter Saw (can use handheld saw if you don’t have, but will need to make some mitered cuts)

  • Power Drill

  • Brad Nailer (can use wood nails and a drill if you don’t have)

  • Jigsaw (optional, but I used to cut out holes in the back for electric)

  • Sander

  • Kreg Jig Pocket Hole

  • Clamps


Keep in mind that my overall piece is 85’’W x 18.5”D x 38.25”H so these are the materials and cuts that I made. Adjust where needed for your piece.


Materials List:


5 - 2x4x8 select pine

2 - 1x6x8 select pine

1 - 1x4x8 select pine

7 - 1x2x8 select pine

2 - 1x10x8 select pine

3 - 3/4in. 4x8 sanded plywood (you can use project panels if you prefer)

1 - 1/2in. 4x8 sanded plywood (you can use whatever you’d like for the back panel)

2 inch wood screws

1 in. and 1.5 in. Pocket Screws

Stain or Paint

Barn Door Hardware

Wood Glue or Liquid Nails


Cut List:

  • Top & Bottom Frames

    • Using your 2x4x8 pieces, you’ll need 12 cuts:

      • 4 at 78in. each

      • 4 at 17in. each

      • 4 at 14 in. each

    • Using your 3/4in. Plywood, you’ll need 2 cuts for the sides:

      • 2 at 37 x 17.25

  • Shelving

    • Using your 3/4in. Plywood, you’ll need 6 cuts:

      • 2 vertical inserts cut at 30.5 in. each

      • 2 side inserts cut at 23in. each

      • 2 middle inserts cut at 33in each

  • Trim

    • Use your 1x2’s and measure and cut as you go

    • You’ll need to cover 4 shelves and 2 vertical inserts

    • Optional to add additional trim to the bottom

  • Back

    • I used 1/2in plywood and cut to size

    • You can use whatever you’d like here

  • Top

    • I used 2 1x10x8 select pine boards

    • Trimmed to fit my length of 85 in. which created an overall on the sides and front

  • Doors

    • Using your 3/4in plywood, you’ll need 2 cuts:

      • 2 cuts at 31 x 16.5

    • Using your 1x2’s, you’ll need 14 cut:

      • 4 cuts at 31in. each

      • 4 cuts at 13.25in. each

      • 2 cuts at 31in. each (mitered at 22.5 degrees on both sides)

      • 4 cuts at 15in. each (middle angle mitered at 45 degrees and outer angle at 22.5 degrees)

  • Bottom

    • I used 3/4in plywood cut to size

    • You can use whatever you’ like here


Step 1: Build The Top & Bottom Frames

Your 2 frames will be identical to each other. Grab the 2 - 78in. 2x4’s, 2 - 17in. 2x4’s and 2 - 14in. 2x4’s to create one base. I used 2 inch wood screws and wood glue to attach everything, but you can also create using pocket holes. Now, make the other frame!



Step 2: Connect The Frames

Take your 2 - 37 x 17.25 ¾ in. plywood pieces (or project panel if you went that route) and attach to the 2 frames. I started with the bottom frame, took some glue, and drilled each piece of plywood to the frame using 2in. wood screws. Then I flipped and repeated until the 2 frames were attached.




Step 3: Attach The Bottom Panel

Take your bottom panel (I used ¾ in. plywood cut to size) and attach using liquid nails and some brad nails.




Step 4: Add Shelving

Starting with your 2 vertical shelves, attach those to your bottom panel and top frame using pocket holes. I wanted my 2 sides to be smaller than my middle, but you can adjust here for whatever spacing you want. I highly recommend grabbing a speed square to ensure these are straight and leveled.



Next, you’ll want to add the rest of your shelving. Attach these again using pocket holes and using that speed square to level everything out. You can once again play with the spacing and amount of shelves but this is how I ended up doing mine!



Step 5: Time To Trim It Out

For the trim, I ended up cutting as I went to ensure everything was perfect. Always good to double check those measurements!


For the top and bottom trim, I used my 1x6’s here. The top I trimmed down to 4.5 inches and for my bottom I used 4 inches. You can play around here to see how much or how little space you want to take up. For the 2 outside pieces, I used 1x4’s cut to size and then 1x2’s for the rest. I also added some 1x2’s along the bottom, but you can leave that out or use any type of trim. I may even go back and add something a bit more fun at a later time!



Step 6: Stain Or Paint

I ended up staining all of my materials at this point because the piece got pretty heavy and me and my boyfriend had to carry it upstairs into our living room (thanks Tom!!). But you can save this step for the end if that works best for you. Also, remember to sand using a 220 grit before any staining or painting! I used a dark walnut stain for mine.


Step 7: Add the back and top

For the back, I chose to go with ½ in. plywood and cut the pieces down to size. I then used my brad nailer to attach it to the piece. Because we are using this under our TV, I used my jigsaw to cut out some holes for all of the TV and wifi cords to go through.


For the top, I originally wanted to use a single project panel cut to size, but I couldn’t find anything that I loved. Instead, I ended up using 2 1x10x8’s, trimmed off 11 inches, and then connected them with some wood glue on the sides and some pocket holes underneath. This sizing created an overhang on both sides and the front. Keep that in mind when cutting your top!


I did try to match up the grains as best as possible so it looks more like a single piece, and I think it ended up working really well for the style I went with.


Step 8: Build and attach doors

Now it’s time to make those doors. I once again used that ¾ in. plywood and cut 2 pieces to 31 x 16.5 which will be used as the panels themselves. To create the X’s, I took scrap 1x2’s and cut 14 pieces (4 for each border of the door and 3 to create each X). The 4 corners need to be cut at a 22.5 degree angle, and the middle pieces at 45 degrees. I measured these as I went and what worked best for my liking. Then I just glued them down and added a few brad nails to secure. Don’t forget to fill in those holes and sand before staining.




As for the hardware, I found this set on amazon that worked perfectly for my size, and they have the set in several different lengths. You can also cut these if none of the sizes work for you, but keep these sizes in mind before building if you don’t want to cut them. The directions were very easy to follow and only took a few minutes to install.


And now you get to sit back and enjoy your new beautiful homemade piece! If you attempt one of your own, be sure to tag me so I can see what you create!!!

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